Spring is making its presence known, with the weather warming up and magnolias already budding. A vibrant explosion of colors is just around the corner. Isn’t it remarkable how nature maintains such a perfect balance? Each season follows the next, bringing its unique palette and emotion, and I love them all. But I can’t help but reflect on a thought that’s been lingering in my mind—while nature keeps this harmony, we humans continue to disrupt it at an alarming pace. That said, I won’t dwell too long on the rhythm of the seasons. Today, I have a secret to share.
Once again, feeling restless and eager to travel, I found myself in Charleston, South Carolina—a place I had long dreamed of visiting. And yet, now that I’m here, I almost wish I hadn’t come. Who knows what’s in store for me? I had read about this city before, but experiencing a place firsthand, breathing in its atmosphere, is something entirely different from simply reading about it.
I’ll admit it right away—I cheated on Boston with Charleston. While they may not be considered siblings, these two cities share a deep historical significance within the same country. I don’t usually fall in love so quickly, but it happened. Let me tell you how and why. Listen closely…
First, let’s talk about Charleston!
Located in South Carolina, Charleston was founded by the English in 1670 as “Charles Town,” named in honor of King Charles II. Today, it’s renowned for its deep-rooted history, picturesque cobblestone streets, stunning architecture, and vibrant culinary scene. It’s often called the “Holy City” due to its many historic churches. However, not all aspects of its past are so admirable. Nearly half of the enslaved people brought to the American continent arrived through Charleston’s port, making the city a central hub in the trade of enslaved individuals. During the colonial era, this dark history also made Charleston the fourth-largest city in America and the wealthiest at the time. Beyond its complex history, Charleston boasts several notable firsts. It is home to the first public college, museum, and theater in the United States. And for those who love sports, here’s an interesting fact—the first golf club in America was founded in Charleston in 1787.
When people visit the U.S. for the first time, they’re often drawn to cities like New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, San Francisco, or Chicago. I believe movies play a huge role in shaping this curiosity. For me, however, it was the Southern cities that piqued my interest, primarily due to the films and TV series I watched as a child about slavery and the American Civil War. Charleston, in particular, had been on my radar for a long time. Every time I came across lists of the most beautiful cities in America or must-visit destinations, Charleston consistently cut. While planning my trip, I noticed that several travel websites had repeatedly ranked it as the most beautiful city in the country. That was the final push I needed— “Alright, Sara,” I told myself, “it’s time for an adventure!”
Of course, knowing my dislike for extreme heat, traveling to the South in the summer would have been a terrible idea. Instead, I chose November—both as a birthday gift to myself and to fully enjoy my favorite season, autumn.
First Impressions of Charleston
We arrive in Charleston while it isn’t still dark, entering the city via Meeting Street, a broad avenue lined with shops and restaurants. My eyes eagerly take in the surroundings— the atmosphere feels refined, inviting. As I roll down the car window, a warm breeze sweeps through my hair. The excitement is almost too much to contain; I can hardly wait to step out onto the streets, even before checking into our hotel. A light drizzle accompanies us as we carry our bags into Planters Inn, our home for the next two days. Knowing we’ll be arriving just in time for dinner, famished, we waste no time settling into our reserved table at Peninsula Grill, renowned for its award-winning wine selection and legendary coconut cake. The hotel itself has a rich history—originally built in the mid-1800s as a luxury goods store. Places with a past, where history lingers in the walls, have always fascinated me. There’s something special about spending time in spaces that have witnessed other lives, other eras.
Tomorrow, I will explore Charleston properly, but even now, I can sense that these two days will be unlike any other. Something about this city already feels different.
Peninsula Grill
Charleston Streets and Me
Today is my birthday, and I want to spend it wandering wherever my feet take me—exploring every hidden corner, capturing photos and videos, and indulging in delicious food.
Since we’ve planned for a late breakfast, we’ll roam the streets until noon. I’m eager to see the many historic landmarks scattered throughout the city, some of which have been transformed into museums. The moment I step outside, I sense that Charleston is unlike a typical American city. The pastel-colored houses lining the narrow cobblestone streets create a dreamlike, almost fairytale setting. I notice a distinctive palm tree emblem on some doors, and later, I learn that it’s the symbol of South Carolina’s state flag. The Sabal palmetto, native to Charleston and its coastal surroundings, holds special significance as the state tree. How charming is that?
Wait—do I see a pink church? Have you ever seen a pastel pink Gothic Revival church before? It’s the French Huguenot Church, built in the 1800s. Before I can even fully take in its beauty, another striking building directly across the street catches my eye. Originally built in 1809 as a hotel for wealthy plantation owners visiting the city, this historic structure now houses the Dock Street Theatre. First converted into a theatre in 1736, it is one of the oldest in the U.S., having undergone multiple reconstructions over the centuries due to fires and earthquakes.
Turning the corner, I’m met with yet another delight—a charming pink house with an antique car parked in front. I can hardly believe my eyes! How can a city be this irresistibly picturesque? If I had to sum it up in one word, it would be charming! With its vibrant colors and storybook-like streets, time seems to slip away unnoticed as I wander.
Before I know it, hunger snaps me back to reality. Remembering we haven’t eaten yet, we head to Millers All Day, a spot we’ve heard has an excellent brunch. The place is packed—they don’t take reservations, and it’s a local favorite. However, we quickly discover that if you’re willing to sit at the bar, you can skip the wait. Without hesitation, we take that option—starvation averted!
Charleston, Are You Stealing My Heart?
Now that we’ve satisfied our hunger and had our coffee, it’s time to hit the streets—there’s so much to explore. Charleston is filled with historic homes, many of which are designated as historical landmarks, each tied to significant people or events from the past. If you love beautiful architecture and the stories behind it, you could easily plan a fantastic route by mapping out these homes. At least, that was my intention. But as I tried to follow my carefully planned path, I found myself completely swept away, losing track of time and happily getting lost in Charleston’s streets.
After a while, I realize I’m completely enchanted by the city’s energy—the vibrant streets, grand historic houses, charming cafés, flickering gas-lit lamps, and swaying palm trees. And then, something stirs inside me. Wait a minute…I recognize this feeling. A sudden urge to sing out loud and dance wildly on the cobblestone streets takes over. The city’s rhythm has intertwined with mine. As the sun sets and the glow of gas streetlights flickers to life, I feel something unexpected awaken within me. No… it couldn’t be. Could I be falling in love?
As daylight fades, I savor every last moment in Charleston, completely immersed in its magic. Pure happiness radiates through me—I can’t stop smiling. Then, as the sun disappears, a cool breeze sweeps in, momentarily pulling me back to reality. Oh, Boston, my love.
I quickly shake off the wave of emotions—after all, today is my birthday! To celebrate, we embrace Southern cuisine for dinner and head to Magnolias, a renowned local spot. Our favorites? The crispy, flavorful fried green tomatoes and Bouillabaisse, a rich Southern-style seafood stew. Served with grilled bread, the stew is a feast in itself, brimming with shrimp, scallops, oysters, mussels, fresh seasonal fish, andouille sausage, potatoes, corn, okra, and bell peppers. Each bite is packed with bold flavors, and I can’t get enough of it. What a way to end a perfect day!
Charleston or Boston?
I’ve been wanting to experience gospel music live for a long time. While researching Charleston before my trip, I discovered that a local restaurant hosts a Sunday gospel brunch—how could I resist? I made a reservation immediately. Now, we’re standing in front of Halls Chophouse, where the soulful sounds of gospel music spill onto the street. The excitement is palpable—this is going to be special! Gospel, a deeply rooted Christian music tradition, dates back to the early 17th century. More than just music, it’s a collection of hymns and sacred songs. My curiosity about it likely stems from the church scenes in movies I watched as a child. Beyond that, gospel played a major role in shaping rock and roll, with influential artists like Elvis Presley bringing it to wider audiences.
After this uplifting brunch, we plan to take a leisurely stroll along the Cooper River. Following the famous Rainbow Row, a charming stretch of vibrant historic homes, we make our way to the Historic Charleston Foundation before heading to the waterfront. The setting is perfect, the air is warm, and love is everywhere.
As I take in the castle-like mansions overlooking the Cooper River, I’m reminded once again that houses are what captivate me most in America. I don’t know where to point my camera; every home is so grand, so enchanting, that I feel like I’ve stepped into a fairy tale. And then, inevitably, my darling Boston comes to mind, and I start comparing. Both cities have stunning architecture, rich history, and a river weaving through them, offering moments of serenity. But no, I won’t waver. Boston is my safe harbor, my place of peace, the city I will always return to. Charleston, on the other hand, is like a passionate, distant lover—thrilling, irresistible, but fleeting, something to be revisited whenever the heart longs for adventure.
Oh, but back to reality. Among the grand homes along the river is the Edmondston-Alston House, now a museum. I make a mental note to return someday and step inside these historic houses-turned-museums. For now, it’s time to refuel. What better way than with Peninsula Grill’s famous coconut cake? Though it’s renowned, I’m always skeptical about desserts in America—the sweetness level here is about 1,000 times higher than my preference. So, I approach with caution. But this time? This cake is beyond delicious.
We wrap up the day by strolling through the vibrant stalls of Charleston City Market, a historic marketplace dating back to the 1790s. Stretching across four blocks, it offers everything from local foods and jewelry to handwoven Gullah sweetgrass baskets and stunning paintings.
For dinner, we opt for seafood and find ourselves in a rather unique setting—a former bank building from the 1920s, now transformed into a luxurious seafood restaurant. “The Ordinary” impresses with its soaring ceilings, grand windows, and an eye-catching bar. The oysters are exceptional, the fish perfectly prepared, and the wine list carefully curated. And flawless service—everything is just right. Looking back, I realize how fitting the restaurant’s name is. Perhaps what they’re saying is, “This is what we do—perfection is just ordinary for us.”
Farewell, Charleston—A Note to Boston
Dear Charleston,
I adored you. Your lively energy, balancing the vibrancy of a big city with the charm of a seaside town, captivated me. But most of all, it was your breathtaking houses and enchanting streets that stole my heart—I could have wandered them for hours without ever growing bored. Strolling past architectural wonders, indulging in incredible food from one gourmet spot to another—it’s impossible not to fall for you. Though our time together was short, I’ll never forget it.
Boston, my love,
Forgive me. Let’s consider this nothing more than a harmless little escape, a fleeting adventure. You are my first and forever love, my home, and I could never give you up. But I must admit—I strayed, just a little, with Charleston.
Dear friends,
After all these words, I’ll let my photos do the rest of the talking. For now, I bid farewell to you and Charleston. Stay well, and may your days be filled with moments of joy until the next article…
Feel free to reach out to me at syakinoglu@gmail.com or through my Instagram account @saraonroad if you’re curious about Charleston, SC—I’d love to hear from you!
Sara Bozdemir
Instagram: @saraonroad
