Hello, dear friends. How have you been since our last meeting? I hope life is treating you well. A new year has arrived, and January is nearly behind us. Each morning, I wake up and greet the day with a warm smile, and every night, I go to bed feeling grateful, still wearing that same smile. As I drift to sleep, my mind often wanders to the memories of places I’ve traveled, or sometimes, I find myself dreaming up plans for my next adventure. Both bring me immense joy. This month, I’d like to share a winter’s tale with you. Are you ready to hear it? Our story is set in none other than Quebec City, Canada.
Once upon a time, there was a charming city called Québec City, nestled along the banks of the Saint Lawrence River in the predominantly French-speaking province of Québec, Canada. Founded in 1608 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain, the city was built on a hill overlooking the river. So, grab a cup of coffee or tea, and let’s wander through the cobblestone streets of this enchanting place together!
I arrive in Québec City just before nightfall, following a snowy 6-hour drive from Boston. My first stop before checking into the hotel is Cassis Monna & Filles, a liqueur shop run by sisters Catherine and Anne, the fifth generation of the Monna family. Their story began in 1872 with the production of fine wines in France and continued when the family settled in their current region in the early 1970s. Bernard Monna, a native of southern France and a fourth-generation liqueur producer, became the first to craft blackcurrant wines and Crème de Cassis in Québec. Blackcurrant, rich in vitamin C, is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Naturally, I couldn’t leave without picking up some of their liqueurs and jam.
I intentionally chose to visit Québec City in the winter, particularly during Christmas, because I imagined the season would suit the city perfectly. Was I right? Well, the city greeted me with snow—hooray! With climate change becoming more apparent, snow has become a rare delight, even in places known for their long winters, making its arrival even more special.
Québec City stands apart from other North American cities with its fortified walls, narrow winding streets, and a rich history that spans four centuries. Its historic old town, Vieux-Québec, is the only city in North America outside of Mexico that still has its original walls, earning it a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985. I chose to stay in the Old Town area of Québec City. The historic city center is divided into Upper Town and Lower Town, and my hotel was situated near the river in Lower Town. After checking in, I realized I was starving. My husband and I enjoyed a hearty plate of pasta at the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Matto, savoring the meal with a lively spirit. After a brief wine break, we headed out to explore the city’s snowy streets. I never waste an opportunity to wander. At night, when the crowds have dispersed, the quiet creates the perfect atmosphere for me to connect with my surroundings. In those moments, the characters from my dreams seem to come alive and keep me company.
The narrow, winding streets, blanketed in snow, are completely deserted. Perhaps it’s the biting cold that keeps everyone indoors? The streets are beautifully decorated for the upcoming New Year, a sight that feels almost magical. Each step I take on the snow creates a gentle crunch, breaking the stillness of the night—a sound as soothing to me as raindrops or the whisper of the wind. I let my feet guide me, wandering from one narrow street to the next until I stumbled upon the most enchanting little square. It feels impossible to describe its beauty. At the center stands a sparkling glass tree, glowing under the softly falling snow. I feel as though I’ve stepped into one of the glittery postcards I used to collect as a child. The houses surrounding the square look exactly like the ones I used to draw as a child—simple shapes made up of a square base, a triangle roof on top, and windows neatly divided into smaller squares! Above the doors, faint yellow lights glow warmly. I stand in the middle of the square, spinning with my arms outstretched, utterly captivated. The moment feels dreamlike, but then a sharp gust of wind stings my face, snapping me back to reality. My mind gently reminds me it’s time to return to the warmth of the hotel, where I can rest and prepare to continue exploring tomorrow. Reluctantly, I make my way back.
Time to dive into the adventure!
I’m bundled up for the streets and the specific spots I plan to visit, fully prepared to embrace the cold weather. With temperatures dipping to 5°F, I need a hearty Québec breakfast to fuel my day of exploration. So, we’re heading straight to La Buche. Over time, I’ve developed a habit of booking reservations well in advance whenever we travel. If there’s a spot we’re determined to try, we make sure to plan to avoid being turned away or wasting time waiting. Braving the snowy, frosty weather, we climb the mural-adorned, narrow streets of the old city to reach La Buche in Upper Town. Since La Buche is known for keeping the tradition of sugar shacks alive, it felt like the perfect place for a late breakfast.
But what exactly is a sugar shack, I wonder? Perhaps it’s the fairy tale charm of Québec City that brings such whimsical thoughts to mind. Suddenly, I’m reminded of the candy house from the fairy tale “Hansel and Gretel.” Is that where I’m headed?
Sugar Shack
Did you know that Canada produces over 70% of the world’s maple syrup, with the finest quality coming from a single forest in Quebec? The use of maple sap as a sweetener began with Indigenous peoples, who would drill holes in maple trees during spring to extract the sap. In Quebec, this tradition of collecting maple sap and turning it into syrup has been passed down through generations. During the sugaring season, families would venture out into the snowy forests with buckets, walking for days to gather the sap. Evenings were spent gathered around long tables covered in checkered tablecloths, enjoying hearty meals of traditional dishes. As they ate, the sounds of forks, knives, and lively violins filled the air, while everyone drank, sang, and danced. These rustic log houses, where maple sap is boiled into syrup and families come together, are known as sugar shacks.
Outside, in the cold, they would make maple candy in the snow. Boiled maple syrup was poured in lines over clean snow, and as it cooled, it was wrapped around wooden sticks to create lollipops—a sweet treat that’s both simple and iconic.
Restaurant La Buche
After a quick dive into history, I return to La Buche, a restaurant with a sugar shack theme. The wooden walls are decorated with animal hides and snowshoes, and long wooden sleds hang from the ceiling. Since no traditional sugar shacks remain in Old Quebec, La Buche isn’t a typical one. There are no folk singers or space for dancing, but the menu is packed with classic sugar shack fare, including soupe aux pois (pea soup), fèves au lard (baked beans), omelets, ham and sausages served with maple syrup, tourtière (meat pie), pickled beets, homemade fruit ketchup, crepes, and of course, a jug of maple syrup. As we browse the menu, we decide to try every brunch option available to satisfy our hunger. After a filling late breakfast, I’m back out on the streets.
“Maison de la Littérature” and “Morrin Center”
I step in and out of charming little shops, and of course, there’s a New Year’s Market. I stroll through the stalls, passing souvenir vendors, mulled wine stands, small snack vendors, and maple syrup booths. After leaving the market, we head to the “Maison de la Littérature,” one of the places I’ve been eager to visit in Québec City. As you know, libraries and bookstores are a must-see for me. This building was once a Methodist church, constructed in 1848, but it now serves as a public library hosting books, exhibitions, and literary events. Even though the books are in French, I find myself spending a lot of time here, captivated by the stunningly photogenic interior, all in white. I take plenty of quiet photos, careful not to disturb anyone.
Right next door is another place I’ve been wanting to explore—the “Morrin Center.” Built over 200 years ago as the city’s first prison, it now houses a library and offers English-language cultural and artistic programs. All resources are available in English. We reach the door, but unfortunately, it’s closed. I had dreamed of getting lost in the pages of history within the old prison walls, immersing myself in the fascinating stories that linger there. Well, it seems I now have a great reason to return to this city!
We’re back out on the streets again. Due to the cold, large barrels with fires burning in them have been set up along some of the roads, with a few placed in front of the impressive parliament building. The “Hotel du Parlement,” constructed between 1877 and 1886, houses the Québec Parliament.
By now, it’s 4 p.m., and it’s time for tea. We’re still in Upper Town, but since our hotel has a lovely café, we decide to head back down to Lower Town. On the way, I pass through Rue de Tresor, a narrow street where artists gather to paint and sell their works. While there are several galleries along the street, most are closed, likely because more of them open during warmer weather.
For dinner, we’ve chosen a small, non-touristy spot called “L’Antiquaire Buffet,” which also serves traditional Quebec cuisine. We enjoyed a hearty pea soup, and sampled tourtière (meat pie) and Shepherd’s Pie. Afterward, with our stomachs full, we found ourselves walking through snow-covered narrow streets, illuminated by the warm glow of yellow streetlights.
Rue du Petit-Champlain
We’re walking down Petit-Champlain Street, one of the most picturesque areas of Old Quebec City. Rue du Petit-Champlain, which dates back to the early days of colonization, holds the title of the oldest commercial street in North America and has witnessed the birth of New France.
Now, this narrow cobblestone street, adorned with glowing snowflakes, colorful signs, and charming shops, is the most photographed spot in Quebec City. At this hour, all the shops are closed, their windows reflecting the snow-covered streets outside. Suddenly, Andersen’s “The Little Match Girl” comes to mind. It’s New Year’s Eve, the streets are blanketed in snow, the shop windows sparkle, and the cold is biting. I imagine the burning matches. Ah, the little match girl! On one side, there’s the coldness of death; on the other, the warmth of dreams and hope, even in the face of hardship. These feelings wash over me. I’m transported back to my childhood, where I read that fairy tale over and over again. I wonder, is one part of me drawn to sadness, while the other finds joy in dreaming? I remind myself it’s time to head back to the hotel before I freeze. Tomorrow promises to be livelier and fuller of adventure, so I should rest a bit.
“Château Frontenac” and “Toboggan”
Today, we’re heading to Upper Town for breakfast. If you don’t feel like climbing the hill to Upper Town, you can take the funicular, which stands 60 meters high and was built in the 1870s. We decided to ride it this time to enjoy the view. As we ascended slowly, we left behind a frozen river and snow-covered rooftops. When we turned around as we reached the top, we were greeted by an incredible sight—the iconic Château Frontenac!
Château Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, was built in the late 1800s by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. It was named after Count Louis Frontenac, the French governor from the 1600s, who angered the priests by promoting the sale of cognac to locals. Over the years, the castle has hosted numerous American and Canadian political figures, including Theodore Roosevelt, Dwight Eisenhower, Richard Nixon, Jimmy Carter, Ronald Reagan, Pierre Elliott Trudeau, Brian Mulroney, and many others.
We’ll come back later to explore the inside of the Château Frontenac, but for now, though the cold has certainly woken us up, let’s start with a croissant and coffee to get ourselves going. We need some fuel, right? The day has just begun. We decided to stop by Paillard, a popular café chain, for a classic French breakfast of croissants and coffee. They’ve gotten great reviews for their coffee and pastries, so we thought we’d give it a try. Now that we’re energized, it’s time for some excitement! We’re going to try Tobogganing! I can almost hear you asking, “What’s that?”
On the Dufferin Terrace, located on the river side of the Château Frontenac, you can slide down the traditional Toboggan hill, which has been in place since 1884, at a thrilling speed of about 70 km/h! Wow, it’s truly an experience you can’t miss if you’re here this season! In a word, it’s absolutely exhilarating!
Afterward, partly out of curiosity and partly to warm up, we head inside the Château Frontenac. We visit the shops, sit down, and take a moment to relax. There’s actually a 5 o’clock tea service at the hotel restaurant, which I’d love to experience, but unfortunately, I don’t have the time for this visit. I promise myself I’ll come back for it next time and head back outside, eager to continue exploring.
Before heading down the 59-step “Breakneck Stairs” that connect Upper and Lower Town, I take a moment to enjoy the view of Petit-Champlain, one of Canada’s most beautiful streets, from above. The story of these stairs dates back to the city’s founder, Samuel de Champlain, who decided to build his home atop Cape Diamant in 1620. He drew a path down from his house and later constructed wooden stairs along that route to navigate the steep slope. As I look down from the top, I notice the street is bustling, and I think, “It’s best to revisit these stairs in the quiet of the night.” I snap a few photos before descending. The shops are open, many selling unique and artisanal products. A small choir sings Christmas carols on the snow-covered street, and I spot a line forming in front of a charming little house. What’s this line for? Oh, they’re making maple candy the traditional way on the snow! Excited, I continue my exploration with maple candy in hand, a smile as sweet as the treat on my face.
As I reach the end of the street and prepare to turn back, I look up and spot a stunning mural- “Fresque du Petit-Champlain.” Painted in 2001, it portrays the history of Cap-Blanc, a working-class neighborhood in the Petit-Champlain district. The mural illustrates significant events such as fishing, maritime trade, fires, military attacks, and landslides that shaped the area. There are 12 other murals in the city worth visiting.
For dinner, I enjoy a hearty onion soup and try poutine, a dish from the Quebec region. Poutine consists of fried potatoes topped with brown gravy and cheese curds, a snack that originated in rural bars in the 1950s. While I can’t say I loved it, the flavor of the onion soup lingers on my taste buds.
Place Royal
On my way back to the hotel, I pass through Place Royal, the fairytale-like square I first saw on my first evening. This is the site where Samuel de Champlain founded the first permanent French settlement in America in 1608. During the French regime, up until 1686, Place Royale was called Place du Marché (Market Square) and functioned mainly as a marketplace. Long before European settlers arrived, small groups of indigenous nomads used the area for hunting, fishing, and gathering. In 1682, a devastating fire destroyed all the wooden buildings initially constructed by the French. As a result, the authorities required property owners to rebuild their homes with stone. Also constructed on this square in 1688 was the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church, which is known as the oldest stone church in North America.
At this moment, the square, which takes me back through time, is filled with the joyful laughter of children late at night. The snow has accumulated in one corner, creating a small hill, and the children are happily rolling down it. At that moment, I joined them, bringing the match girl along. We climbed and rolled down the snow hill together. This magical night, with the flickering Christmas lights and snowflakes gently touching my face, will remain etched in my memory.
Time to say goodbye….
Now, it’s time to say goodbye to Quebec and you, my friends. I’m having breakfast at “Le Billig,” a place I wanted to visit for its delicious crepes before leaving the city. If you’re ever in Quebec, don’t miss out on their incredibly sweet and savory crepe options. Friends, it’s time to hit the road! Until we meet again, stay safe.
Feel free to reach me at syakinoglu@gmail.com or on my @saraonroad Instagram account if you have any questions about Quebec City —I’d love to hear from you!
Stay with love and happiness until the next article…
Sara Bozdemir
Instagram: @saraonroad8
